Washington State’s Snipes Mountain AVA Is a Story of Evolution and Evolving Wines

Co Dinn, owner and winemaker at Co Dinn Cellars in Sunnyside, Washington, can condense 15 million years of geologic history into a five-minute lesson: 15 million years ago, a hotspot—the same one pulsing beneath Yellowstone National Park—created fissures in the earth. Lava poured across eastern Washington, leaving behind basalt rock and the sprawling, flat Columbia River Basin. Around the same time, tectonic shift, says Dinn, “wrinkled the earth like an accordion.” Upward folds of land diverted the course of the ancestral Columbia River, which once flowed through what’s now Upland Vineyards, where a majority of the grapes grown in the Snipes Mountain AVA are located. The river left behind an alluvial wash of sand, gravel, cobbles, pebbles and clay that today mingles with loess, a windblown sandy soil dragged south two million years ago by glacial floods during the second Ice Age.

In the early 2000s, Professor Joan Davenport, a soil scientist and now professor emeritus at Washington State University, estimated more than 35 different soil types were on Snipes Mountain, a 1,300-foot-high, seven-mile-long ridgetop named for Ben Snipes, a 19th-century rancher known as the “Cattle King.” (Snipes is credited with first referring to the Yakima Valley as “horse heaven”; Horse Heaven Hills AVA is another uplifted AVA here.) Davenport encouraged Todd Newhouse, co-owner and vineyard manager of Upland Vineyards and chair of the Washington State Wine Commission, to pursue AVA designation.

Snipes Mountain and Harrison Hill, both included in the AVA, are key to the origin story of Washington wine. Upland Vineyards was first named by William Bridgman, an attorney and two-time mayor of Sunnyside in the early 1900s whose family grew Concord grapes in Ontario, Canada. Bridgman planted wine grapes on Snipes Mountain and Harrison Hill in 1917, becoming one of the first champions of Washington wine and foreseeing Snipes Mountain’s unique viticultural promise. Due to the mountain’s slope, cold air readily falls to the valley floor while warm air radiates upward, offering protection from late spring frosts. Snipes Mountain’s warm south-facing aspect is suitable for growing Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon, while its cooler northern slope is ideal for varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Gris. In 1971, Newhouse’s grandfather purchased the Upland Winery site, which had been sold and renamed in the 1960s. He reinstated the name Bridgman originated, planting Upland Vineyards anew with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, among other varieties.

Despite this long history of viticulture, Snipes Mountain only gained AVA status in 2009. Once official TTB recognition was on the horizon, Newhouse cultivated relationships with smaller Washington wineries who could showcase Snipes Mountain fruit. Jason Gorski has been the winemaker at DeLille Cellars, which crafts Bordeaux-inspired blends, for 13 years. An annual bottling called Harrison Hill, the first vintage released in 1995, showcases Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grown on Harrison Hill. “It’s a point of pride for us,” says Gorski, who describes Snipes Mountain wines as “earthier” and showing restraint in the form of floral, savory characteristics rather than big, fruity ones.

Upland Vineyards and DeLille Cellars have been partners for almost 30 years. “So, we’re not making decisions for what’s best for this week,” says Gorski. “We’re building a partnership to last longer than us. From 60-year-old vines, in 2024, we make a wine that will last 20 to 30 years. In the overall history of Washington wine, and our family businesses, these wines are something bigger than us.”

Quick Facts

  • Location: Yakima Valley, Washington
  • Designated: February 20, 2009
  • Total Size: 4,145 acres; 859 acres planted
  • Soils: Sand, silt, gravel, pebbles, cobbles and clay
  • Average Annual Precipitation: Less than 7 inches
  • Most Planted Grapes: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay
  • Climate: Hot, dry, continental
  • Number of Wineries: 0

This article originally appeared in the November 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Like what you see? Get access to the whole issue by subscribing here today.

More Washington State Wine Coverage

red wine glass

From the Shop

Find Your Wine a Home

Our selection of red wine glasses is the best way to enjoy the wine’s subtle aromas and bright flavors.

Shop All Wine Glasses

The post Washington State’s Snipes Mountain AVA Is a Story of Evolution and Evolving Wines appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.



Popular posts from this blog

‘Scientific Investigation and Discovery Ensures the Wine Industry Can Continue to Produce High Quality Wines,’ says Elizabeth Tomasino, Innovator of the Year | Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 Wine Star Awards

Image
Images Courtesy of Anita Oberholster, Tom Collins and Elizabeth Tomasino The Researchers Are Giving Wildfire-Plagued West Coast Wine Producers Hope. Smoke taint is one of the greatest threats to America’s West Coast wine regions, with wines from over half the vintages of the last decade affected. In the age of climate change , as wildfires become an increasingly regular part of life, the need for more research into the effects of smoke on grape growing and winemaking takes on new urgency. Enter three researchers: Anita Oberholster at the  University of California, Davis ; Tom Collins at  Washington State University  and Elizabeth Tomasino at  Oregon State University . Individually, Oberholster, Collins and Tomasino had already been working on topics related to smoke and wine, but when the three applied for and received a four-year Specialty Crop Research Initiative (SCRI) grant in 2020, they combined forces, bringing research experience from their respective states to the table
Read more

The House Is ‘Intrinsically Tied to Provence,’ says Cyprien Roy of Domaines Ott, European Winery of the Year | Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 Wine Star Awards

Image
Image Courtesy of Lucy Beaugard The Historic Rosé Producer Has Never Chased Trends. For many wine lovers in the United States and beyond, Domaines Ott rosé —in its iconic amphora-shaped bottle—influenced their impression of one of the essential products of Provence . The plurality of Domaines Ott is derived from three properties: historic Château Romassan in Bandol ; Clos Mireille, a former monastery at La Londe Les Maures; and the windswept flagship Château de Selle in Taradeau. “Domaines Ott has been producing rosé for more than 100 years,” says Cyprien Roy, communications manager at Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc . representing Louis Roederer, owner of Domaines Ott. Though often credited for elevating the popularity of high-end Provençal rosé around the world, the company is “not in it for producing wines that are trendy,” says Roy. Domaines Ott was founded in 1912 by Marcel Ott, a young agronomist from Alsace who found enough viticultural inspiration in Provence t
Read more

DoorDash Reintroduces: Merchant Suite to Help Restaurants Unlock New Potentials for Growth

Image
  In the face of a tough economy, supply chain interruptions, and industry-wide obstacles, small and mid-sized restaurant owners are finding it more difficult to grow their businesses. These restaurants moved with agility during the pandemic, optimizing operating models to better support their communities and their bottom line, but many are still struggling to recover as the pandemic endures and we brace for the looming recession. Through collaboration with third-party partners like DoorDash, thousands of restaurants discovered a consumer appetite for on-demand delivery that drove new revenue. This shift not only helped keep smaller operators afloat, but it introduced them to new customers at a time where consumer engagement is crucial and demand for delivery continues to grow.  Restaurateurs have seen firsthand how much opportunity exists for their businesses and food delivery apps when they work together and know that the future of the industry is highly collaborativ
Read more

Reese’s Fudge

Image
An easy 3 ingredient no-bake fudge that has Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups inside. Reese’s fudge is creamy and delicious and only takes 20 minutes to throw together! It will have the whole family wanting more. Calling all peanut butter lovers! Here are a few more sweet treats I know you’ll love: peanut butter fudge , 3-ingredient peanut butter cookies , and of course – my tried and true peanut butter bars ! 3-Ingredient Reese’s Fudge Reese’s fudge is the king of easy desserts. And no baking is required! Could there be anything better? This fudge is packed with rich peanut butter chocolate flavor. It just melts in your mouth! Honestly, this turned out so much better than expected and I couldn’t stop eating it. Everyone that I gave the fudge to was obsessed with it as well. This is your sign to make some right now! Homemade fudge is the absolute best. With how simple it is to make, there’s really no reason not to! It only takes 3 ingredients. (Yes, you read that right!) Peanut butter
Read more

Hummingbird Cupcakes

Image
A bite-sized take on a classic Southern dessert, these hummingbird cupcakes are sure to win your heart! Filled with pecans, chopped fruit, and topped with smooth cream cheese frosting, you won’t be able to stop at one! One of the unique things about hummingbird cake is that it’s filled with coconut and pineapple! If you love tropical fruits, this is the dessert for you! A few more recipes I think you’ll love are this pineapple upside down cake , coconut cream cake , and key lime poke cake ! Hummingbird Cupcakes With Cream Cheese Frosting If you’ve never had hummingbird cake before, you’re in for a treat! There’s a reason it’s been popular since the 70s! It’s similar to carrot cake in terms of spice and texture, but filled with coconut and pineapple for a pop of tropical flavor. In cupcake form, it’s even better! These delicious spiced cupcakes are so good, you won’t be able to stop at one. All of the tasty mix-ins these cupcakes have make them so amazing! Plus, they’re supremely
Read more

Move Over, White Claw: Hard Seltzer Goes Craft

Image
Getty Images There was derision in certain drinking circles when hard seltzer first captured the beverage zeitgeist in the mid-2010s . Then, when it became apparent that the fizzy fruity category was going to become a permanent fixture in consumer fridges around 2018 , many makers raced to catch up with demand. These days it’s clear that there are two hard-seltzer options: larger national brands—like White Claw , Truly and High Noon —and craft producers and upstarts that offer smaller-batch offerings. Hard Seltzer Finds Its Footing in Craft Spaces Mirroring the craft beer industry of the last 20 years, a lot of the innovation in hard seltzer flavor is happening through the smaller producers. And their offerings give consumers a chance to drink local and taste a sense of place. “Honestly, I don’t see the big brands as competition,” says Nick Smith the owner of Lumpy Ridge Brewing Co. in Estes Park, Colorado . “We’re playing different games. I believe in what makes us craft an
Read more

‘We’re Trying to Create a Legacy Region,’ Says Austin Hope, Winemaker and President of Hope Family Wines, American Winery of the Year | Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 Wine Star Awards

Image
Image Courtesy of John Fedorowicz The Winery has Championed Paso Robles Since its Days as a Cow Town. Though today it’s a globally recognized wine country full of stylish tasting rooms and lined with vines as far as the eye can see, Paso Robles , California , was little more than a dusty cowboy town when Chuck and Marilyn Hope bought land to plant vineyards here in 1978. Four decades later, Hope Family Wines produces a wide range of internationally distributed brands that are respected for both quality and affordability as well as market-leading creativity. “We became one of the larger farmers in the area,” explains their son, Austin Hope, who went from a kid playing in vineyards to a visionary for the family’s wine portfolio almost 30 years ago. “There wasn’t anyone here at the time. We went through the whole cycle of the wine industry.” They grew Zinfandel during the height of the White Zin craze, empowered the region’s Bordeaux boom and were an early adopter of the Rhône g
Read more

‘In Wine, the Most Important Decisions are Long-Term Decisions,’ says Sebastian Zuccardi, Director of Winemaking of Zuccardi Valle de Uco, New World Winery of the Year | Wine Enthusiast’s 2022 Wine Star Awards

Image
Image Courtesy of ZUCCARDI VALLE DE UCO / WINESELLERS LTD Letting the land and fruit of Argentina’s Uco Valley speak through wine has been a painstaking process of research and study. “ Zuccardi Valle de Uco is Uco Valley ,” says Sebastian Zuccardi, director of winemaking and third generation of the Zuccardi family. The winery has focused on elevating the Uco Valley region while positioning itself as one of its most iconic wine producers. The Zuccardis’ innovative spirit guided them to the Uco Valley in the early 2000s. Since then, they have explored it thoroughly, from a macro to a micro perspective. As a result, their winery is currently praised for its wines made with grapes from acclaimed appellations such as Altamira, Gualtallary and San Pablo. “As a family,” says Zuccardi, “what we did well was create something with deep roots by first understanding the region, then purchasing land, learning more about the region and finally building a winery.” In 2009, Zuccardi and his tea
Read more

A Simple Scotch and Soda Is a Refreshing Classic

Image
Stocksy Learning how to make the best Scotch and soda might sound unnecessary. After all, it’s just a combination of Scottish whisky , sparkling water and ice. In a glass. Mixing up a Scotch and soda should be as easy as falling off the proverbial log. However, it turns out there are a number of considerations that go into making the ideal version of this drink, also known as the Scotch highball. The History of the Scotch and Soda Its precise origins are murky, but the combination of Scotch and soda was making the rounds in both Britain and the U.S. in the late 1800s. Cincinnati barman C.F. Lawlor includes a whiskey and soda drink called the Splificator in his pioneering 1895 book The Mixicologist , plus a “High Ball” cocktail that features brandy or whiskey and seltzer over ice. More proof linking the Scotch and Soda to this era is a 1927 letter written by bartender and author Patrick Gavin Duffy, which was published in the New York Times. In it, Duffy states that he rarely s
Read more

Cocktail Competitions Promise Opportunity. But Who Really Wins?

Image
  For major spirits companies, cocktail competitions have long been a way to get products into the hands of creative bartenders and customers. Events start at the local level and scale all the way up to international tournaments, with potential for major prizes, mentorship from past winners, and rapid career growth.  Despite the potential benefits of getting involved with these kinds of events, not every brand wants to (or is able to) host. Independent spirit brands like Good Vodka , a vodka made from coffee fruit, find competitions too expensive and time-consuming for their small teams, which instead builds relationships with bartenders by “doing the legwork from bar to bar, account to account,” explains co-founder Tristan Willey. Willey won an Old Forester Old Fashioned Competition while working at Nomad, in addition to serving as a judge for similar competitions. He notes that judging comes with its own challenges, like drinking many Bloody Marys in quick success
Read more