Washington State’s Snipes Mountain AVA Is a Story of Evolution and Evolving Wines
Co Dinn, owner and winemaker at Co Dinn Cellars in Sunnyside, Washington, can condense 15 million years of geologic history into a five-minute lesson: 15 million years ago, a hotspot—the same one pulsing beneath Yellowstone National Park—created fissures in the earth. Lava poured across eastern Washington, leaving behind basalt rock and the sprawling, flat Columbia River Basin. Around the same time, tectonic shift, says Dinn, “wrinkled the earth like an accordion.” Upward folds of land diverted the course of the ancestral Columbia River, which once flowed through what’s now Upland Vineyards , where a majority of the grapes grown in the Snipes Mountain AVA are located. The river left behind an alluvial wash of sand, gravel, cobbles, pebbles and clay that today mingles with loess, a windblown sandy soil dragged south two million years ago by glacial floods during the second Ice Age. In the early 2000s, Professor Joan Davenport, a soil scientist and now professor emeritus at Washington