Saying Goodbye to Four Horsemen’s Justin Chearno, the Wine Rebel Who Brought Punk Rock to the Glass

When I heard the news, I could not have been in a more tranquil place—lounging on a dory, hypnotized by the endless blue of the Adriatic, when my phone buzzed, shattering the peace. A glance at the screen—“sad news”—and the world suddenly felt heavier with what followed. A close friend had written to tell me that Justin Chearno, co-owner of Brooklyn’s celebrated Four Horsemen, had passed away. It hit like a gut punch.

Justin. The guy I was planning to see in just a few weeks back in New York. The guy who made you feel like you belonged, even if you didn’t know him well. I wasn’t his closest confidante, but he had a rare gift. His warmth and wit made you feel like part of his inner circle. Being around him was like sitting front row, glass of wine in hand.

I had interviewed Justin several times, including a podcast where we dove into his journey from music to wine. Before becoming a founding partner at the Michelin-starred Four Horsemen, Justin had been a punk and indie rocker. Music was his first love, but wine became his next passion, putting natural wine center stage. He brought the same rebellious energy to wine he’d brought to music, creating an anthem anyone would sing along to.

And he found the right crew to make it happen: Alongside LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy and two other friends, Justin cofounded the Four Horsemen, a haven for natural wine lovers in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I quickly became a regular, witnessing the restaurant growing from hipster curiosity to mecca, exceptional food and most importantly, great vibes. It culminated with a James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine Program in 2022. 

“I grew up in Ohio where you drank beer, and wine was for doctors and lawyers.”

Justin Chearno

He was fiercely proud of his team, often saying, “Every person here could run their own program.” But, it wasn’t the accolades that motivated him. For him, it was always about creating memories. I still remember the time we spent an hour debating whether a magnum of Prieuré Roch Clos de Vougeot 1992 was corked, until the bottle was empty. He loved to share and so he introduced me to one of his favorite wineries, L'Anglore, which has since become one of mine, too.

He had this rare way of making wine relatable, even to those unfamiliar with it. “I grew up in Ohio where you drank beer, and wine was for doctors and lawyers,” he told me. To Justin, winemakers were like bands, distributors like record labels, and wine was the album—each cuvée a song waiting to be discovered. And with that energy he nurtured a community of curious, passionate people who saw wine as more than a drink, but their life.

Our conversations often turned to him speaking fondly of his relationship with his wife, Stacy, or his 10-year-old son, Felix, who got a taste of some world-class dining from his dad and who many of us know from moments of them playing basketball Justin often shared on Instagram. (Please consider donating to the GoFundMe fundraiser to help support Felix’s future.) He made sure to share Four Horseman’s success with friends, as well, like the restaurant's publicist, Jay Strell, or his former employer turned boss and wine distributor, Zev Rovine.

Even as Four Horsemen neared its 10-year anniversary, Justin’s wine story was still being written. He and his partners were planning a new restaurant and preparing to release their first cookbook. It feels like we’ve lost him just as the next chapter was about to unfold.

But what a story it was. Justin wasn’t just a wine buyer; he was a man who brought punk rock energy to every bottle he touched. Though a trailblazer, he remained humble. He’d joke, “At first, I thought natural wine was disgusting. I was a sophisticated wine buyer who only bought high-class Burgundy.” But he fell in love with natural wine because of the people, and that love only grew.

Earlier this year, I interviewed Justin, for, what turned out to be, the last time. We were sweating together in the glass greenhouse of Esterhazy’s Orangerie (which had become superheated in the sun) during the wine festival Karakterre. Yet, he was humble and cool enough to share a bottle while we finished the recording.I’ll remember him every time I sip L’Anglore or Prieuré Roch, or when a wine has just a touch too much VA (volatile acidity), a wine characteristic that always made him sweat profusely. Here’s to Justin—the rebel, the romantic, the friendly face who turned every hangout into a party. And in his world, the party never really ends.

More Coverage of Influential People

  • Distiller Steve McCarthy was one of the early pioneers of the modern craft distillery movement.
  • Second-generation grape grower Mark Neal’s trellis innovation sequesters carbon—and produces twice the amount of grapes.
  • Nicolas Joly blazed the biodynamic trail in France’s Loire Valley.
  • Alice Feiring has been instrumental in bringing natural wine to America’s consciousness.Pedro Parra, a.k.a. Dr. Terroir, is changing winemaking from the ground up.
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The post Saying Goodbye to Four Horsemen’s Justin Chearno, the Wine Rebel Who Brought Punk Rock to the Glass appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.



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