Natural Wines are Everywhere Right Now, so Zalto Created a Glass for Them
I’ve often found myself in spirited debates about glassware’s merits. After a few drinks, I might passionately extoll a particular type while some friends nod knowingly and others roll their eyes. But let’s be honest: glassware matters. The right one can elevate a humble bottle, coaxing out hidden aromas and flavors.
I’m not one to buy many types of glasses for the sake of it; practicality matters, too. If I have guests, nothing is more annoying than unmatching glassware. For years, I’ve been a proponent of the Zalto Universal glass, although I adore their Bordeaux version for solo drinking. Plus, I do have a few others mostly for personal use.
When Michael Hinterleitner, whose family owns Zalto, told me about their new Balance glass—which has a wide mouth and short conical bowl—and presented it, I had my doubts. I’d heard about its rigorous testing and merits, but didn’t pay much attention. That said, Zalto’s reputation for being the gold standard in wine tasting meant I was intrigued.
The brand is synonymous with high-performance glassware. Their iconic Denk’Art series has transformed how sommeliers and wine lovers experience wine. Each glass is mouth-blown with exquisite precision, reflecting a commitment to craftsmanship that is both awe-inspiring and somewhat intimidating. Many of my guests refuse to handle them, saying, “I am too clumsy for this, please give me a small, simple glass.”
While I was unpacking the new Balance, I wondered: “Do we really need another glass in our already intimidating wine world?”
Designing a Glass for New Trends in Winemaking
The Balance features a distinct curvature, is short and easy to maneuver, which somehow makes it more approachable. Like every Zalto glass, it is mouthblown, combining delicacy with surprising robustness. The interior has a unique texture that enhances the wine’s interaction with the glass.
At 195 millimeters tall and 113 millimeters wide, the Zalto Balance is a study of elegance and functionality. Smaller than Zalto’s Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses, it has a pronounced angle that catches the eye and serves a crucial purpose: tuning certain dominant aspects to showcase the terroir.
Hinterleitner explains, “We have been testing different prototypes for two years, in order to create a glass that harmonizes certain aspects of wines not often found in conventional winemaking.”
He notes that wine lists from renowned restaurants increasingly feature wines made with alternative vinification methods.
“Winemaking has changed, with many producers focusing on skin contact, oxidative processing and longer time on the lees, we aimed to create a glass that lets these wines show their best,” he adds.
Conventional glasses often emphasize fruitiness, which can overshadow the intricate flavors of natural wines.
How Does the Zalto Balance Perform?
Eager to test the glass, I ordered a skin-contact white, Dario Prinčič 2013, a wine made using most of the vinification methods Hinterleitner described.
The Zalto Balance felt almost weightless in my hand, and I compared it to my beloved Bordeaux glass. My first sip was revelatory. The Balance coaxed out flavors and textures, softening tannins and highlighting stony minerality with engaging vibrancy, showcasing remarkable depth.
For comparison, I took a swig from a third high-end varietal-specific glass. While Balance muted certain characteristics, the other two enhanced them, masking the terroir and sharpening the tannins.
Next, I selected a wine known for high volatile acidity: a Loire Chenin Blanc from Mai and Kenji Hodgson, Les Aussigouins 2019. This wine is normally divisive; I enjoy it, but often find its volatility distracting. While the other two glasses revealed the expected dominant acidity, plus reduction, Balance somehow tamed it, allowing other elements to shine.
Phenolic notes that had been masked now danced on my palate, and the wine’s subtle nuances emerged, revealing its character. It was as if the glass had invited the wine to show its entire personality, akin to how a good sound system reveals the depth of a Miles Davis trumpet performance.
After this meeting, I was sold on the new product but was eager to test it further. Over the following week, I tried it with sparkling wine, light and bold reds, rosés and even kombucha. I loved it for Champagne but found it less suitable for Pét-Nat. Light reds worked better than heavier ones, while rosé’s success was style-dependent. Surprisingly, kombucha was perfect in this glass.
Swirling wine in it felt intuitive. The glass encouraged aeration, creating a delightful interplay between the wine and the air. It was as if the glass lovingly cradled the wine, inviting me to explore its depths with each sip. Most notably, it harmonized everything that was a bit jangled in other glasses.
Should I Buy the Zalto Balance?
Zalto’s craftsmanship has always been impressive, but this innovation was as astounding as it was unexpected. The Balance glass is a remarkable addition to wine tasting, addressing a crucial need in glassware while honoring the evolution of winemaking practices. It sets a new standard for how wine should be experienced.
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In the Shop
Zalto Denk'Art Balance Glasses Set of 2
In Stock | $160
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