What Goes with Crispy, Deep-Fried Fish? Aged Chardonnay.

The Contemporary African Kitchen is one of the few books that covers Africa in all its diversity, with recipes from 33 of Africa’s most important chefs, curated by James Beard Award-winning chef and former opera singer Alexander Smalls with Dine Diaspora CEO Nina Oduro. This recipe from Clara Kapelembe Bwali is a special-occasion dish using fish from Lake Tanganyika and the hardy green rape, but mackerel and collards make good substitutions.  


Buka Fish with Rape

Excerpted from The Contemporary African Kitchen © 2024 by Alexander Smalls and Nina Oduro. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.

Ingredients

For the Fish:

  • 1/4 cup lemon juice
  • 6 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 12 whole buka fish, gutted and cleaned by your fishmonger*
  • Vegetable oil, as needed for deep-frying
  • Lemon wedges, to serve

*Instead of buka fish, you can substitute 12 whole Pacific saury (aka mackerel pike), 6 whole mackerel or 6 whole jack mackerel, adjusting quantities if your whole fish are particularly large or small.

For the Greens:

  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/4 cup diced onion
  • 1 cup diced tomato
  • 3 cups rape (can substitute young collard greens)

Instructions

Combine the lemon juice, garlic and a pinch of salt in a large shallow glass or ceramic container. Add the fish, coat well, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

The next day: Pat the fish dry to remove any excess marinade and set aside. In a medium pot, add enough oil to submerge the fish fully. Heat the oil to 350°F. Place the fish in the oil, in batches if necessary, and deep-fry for 5 minutes, or until crisp and golden brown. Remove the fish from the oil and drain away any excess oil on paper towels.

For the greens, heat the oil in a medium pan on medium heat. Add the onion and tomato and cook for 6 minutes until combined and broken down. Add a pinch of salt, then the greens and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes; remove from the heat to avoid overcooking. (If overcooked, the rape will lose its rich green color). Salt to taste. Place the fish and greens next to each other on a plate and serve warm with lemon wedges alongside. Serves 6. 

Wine Pairing: Aged U.S. Chardonnay

These flavorful small fried fish call for a more intense white than you might pair with a simple filet of flaky white fish. With age, the apple and citrus notes of a younger Chardonnay give way to a creamier texture and notes of toast, nuts, and even honeyed or mushroomy aromas. It matches the richness of the fish and the heartiness of the greens, but still refreshes the palate; pairing aged Chardonnay with deep-fried dishes highlight the wine’s intrinsic crispness.

This article originally appeared in the December 2024 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!


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